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Advancing the future of textured hair solutions

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Published on:
Wednesday 26th March 2025

The textured hair market

Did you know that an estimated 60–70% of the world’s population has textured hair? Textured hair is a broad term that encompasses any hair with a wave or curl pattern, where strands naturally form unique shapes such as curves, spirals, and zigzags. (1) Despite the prevalence of textured hair worldwide, the beauty market and product offerings in this space has historically been niche.  However, in recent years, the market has seen a surge in innovation and investment, as both legacy brands and indie disruptors work to meet the specific needs of textured hair consumers.
 
The global hair care market is a thriving industry, valued at $96.82 billion (2) and projected to grow at a rate of 2.69% annually (3). In North America alone, the hair care market is worth $22 billion (4), reflecting the strong demand for products that cater to a wide variety of hair needs. Within this broader industry, the textured hair care segment is experiencing even faster growth. Currently, the global textured hair market is valued at approximately $15.66 billion (5) and is growing at an impressive 4.7% annually (6)—a rate that outpaces the overall hair care industry. In North America, textured hair care represents 35% of the total hair care market (7), highlighting both its significance and potential for growth.

With this growth, several key players are shaping the landscape of textured hair care, leading in sales and product innovation. The top five brands in the U.S. based on 2024 retailer sales (8) are:

1. Unilever $245.3m - Shea Moisture shampoo
2. Proctor and Gamble $194.3m - Mielle conditioner
3. PDC Brands $84.3m - Cantu styling
4. L’Oreal USA Inc. $68.8m - Carol’s Daughter, Soft Sheen Carson hair color
5. Estyle Corp LLC $42.1m - Eco styling

These brands have captured consumer trust by offering formulations that address the unique needs of textured hair—ranging from care to styling to treatments.

When it comes to purchasing textured hair care products, consumers have a mix of retail and specialty store options, as well as mass and premium offerings. In the U.S., 60% of textured hair sales come from mass retailers. Among these retailers, Walmart leads the way, holding 24.2% of the U.S. market share in total hair care retail sales in 2023 (9).

The morphology of textured hair 

The cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair, is made up of overlapping layers of flat cells that protect the inner structure or cortex. The packing within the cortex was once thought to be universal across hair types; however, there are distinct differences between textured hair types and straight hair. Hair texture, whether straight, wavy, curly, or coily, is determined by several factors and differences.
 

Characteristics resulting in the diversity of hair

1. Chemical composition: The amounts of proteins, mainly keratin, water, melanin and lipids, can vary across hair types. 
2. Follicle shape: Hair morphology is determined by follicle shape. The shape of the hair follicle affects how the keratin fibres arrange themselves, influencing the curl pattern. Round follicles produce straight hair, while oval or asymmetrical follicles create waves and curls—the more oval, the curlier. Flattened or highly elliptical follicles result in tightly coiled hair.
3. Strand diameter or thickness: This is often categorised as fine, medium, or coarse, directly correlating to the diameter, which goes from small to large.  
4. Curl shape: Refers to how the hair bends, twists, and coils as it grows. (10) 

Understanding hair classification systems for textured hair

The beauty industry has long recognised that no two heads of hair are exactly alike. While hair texture and curl patterns vary widely, classification systems have emerged to help consumers and professionals better understand hair types and their unique needs. Two of the most commonly referenced systems are the Andre Walker Hair Typing System and L’Oréal’s Hair Classification System.

These classification methods serve as useful tools for both consumers seeking the right products and hair care professionals developing targeted treatments. However, each system approaches hair categorisation differently—Andre Walker’s method is widely recognized for its simplicity and consumer-friendliness, while L’Oréal’s system takes a more scientific and data-driven approach to defining curl and kink patterns.

Below shares how each system works, their strengths and limitations, and how they help consumers better understand and care for their textured hair.

1. Andre Walker hair typing system: This system is broken down into 4 broad categories, from 1 to 4, referring to straight to kinky hair, with subcategories A through C. There have been reports of omissions and even some overlapping between these subcategories, but this curl classification system seems to resonate best with consumers in helping them identify their hair types. 

   
2.L'Oréal hair classification: Hair is classified into eight categories, from straight to extremely coily, with types 1 to 4 covering low to moderately curled hair and types 5 to 8 representing curlier to coily textures. L'Oréal assesses curliness using morphologic parameters like curve diameter and curl index, while kinking is determined by analysing the number of waves, twists, and kinks along the strand.

Top consumer textured hair needs

1. Scalp irritation & slow growth
Consumers with textured hair are prone to scalp conditions such as scaliness, irritation, and dryness due to increased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Compared to straight hair, the sebaceous glands for textured hair consumers produce less sebum, the natural oil that helps keep the scalp and strands moisturised. (11) This could lead to a dry, flaky scalp and discomfort, making hydration and scalp health key concerns.  Several factors exacerbate these issues including product build up, infrequent washing routines, and prolonged dryness from protective hairstyles.
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2. Hair roughness and manageability
​For many consumers, achieving smooth, soft, and manageable hair is a top priority, but this remains a challenge due to textured hair’s naturally low moisture retention. The tighter the curl pattern, the harder it is for moisture to travel from the scalp down the length of the hair shaft.

With 81% of U.S. women now wearing their hair naturally (12), there is a growing demand for products that enhance hydration, manageability, and overall sensory feel. Brands have the opportunity to help consumers embrace their natural texture while ensuring their hair remains soft and touchable,

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3. Hair breakage and shedding

A major consumer concern for textured hair is strengthening and damage repair. Due to its coiled structure and uneven cuticle thickness, textured hair is naturally more fragile than straight hair. Additionally, keratin protein packing is less uniform, making strands more prone to breakage, split ends, and shedding, especially during detangling and styling.

As a result, 31% of consumers with textured hair are actively seeking products that repair broken hair bonds and restore structural integrity at the molecular level (13). This has led to increased interest in protein treatments, bond-building technology, and products that improve elasticity and tensile strength.

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4. Hair frizz and lack of definition

Maintaining defined curls, coils, and waves while reducing frizz is another top concern, particularly after "wash day." One of the biggest challenges textured hair consumers face is keeping their style fresh between washes without excessive product buildup or dryness.

Styling products play a crucial role in enhancing and holding curl patterns, but consumers often struggle to find the right balance between hold, moisture, and flexibility. The demand for multi-functional styling products—ones that offer anti-frizz control and curl definition—continues to grow.

With 84% of U.S. consumers with 3A–4B hair agreeing that their hair is the most important part of their overall look (14), it’s clear that maintaining curl definition and hair integrity beyond wash day is a priority. Consumers are looking for lightweight yet effective styling solutions that keep their curls looking fresh, bouncy, and well-defined without stiffness or excessive reapplication.

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Are you interested in learning more about these consumers' insights? To learn more, watch the fourth episode of the Croda Beauty Masterclass HERE!

1: Flora & Curl – Cosmetics Design
2. (2025 forecast) Statista
3. (2025-2030) Statista
4. (2027 forecast) Euromonitor
5. (2031 forecast) Allied Market Research
6. (2022-2031) Allied Market Research
7. (2023) Verified Market Reports
8. Circana InfoScan® Reviews/Mintel
9. Beauty Independent (Brown, YipitData)
10. Cloete, E., Khumalo, N. and Ngoepe, M. (2019). The what, why and how of curly hair: a review. Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 475(2231), p.20190516. 
11. Simplyorganicbeauty.com 
12-14 Mintel – Black haircare US 2024