Smart science to improve lives™
Open search Basket 0 View basket

5 oily concepts for 5 bold concepts

Explore the emotions and efficacy behind our natural ingredients
Oily botanicals extracts, the ideal ingredients for waterless beauty;

Five oily extracts for five inspiring concepts for waterless beauty

Water scarcity is a critical global issue and consumers know it. With an increasingly large audience looking for low water or waterless formulations we have launched the Heliami™ range of liposoluble actives to help formulators produce effective, on-trend products for water conscious consumers.

With an estimated 1.8 billion people expected to face an absolute water shortage by 2025, according to the UN, it is time we reconsider our use of water in the cosmetics industry. The beauty industry is a significant contributor to water scarcity, as many products contain between 60 and 95% water. In moving to meet this challenge, a whole array of waterless personal care products, from solid formulas to alternative natural oils, invite consumers to adopt new beauty routines rich in self-indulgence but not in water content.

Waterless beauty can be a great lever for preserving this precious resource but requires solutions that don’t compromise on naturality, efficacy, sensory experience, and compelling storytelling. That’s why we believe that our new range of sunflower oil-based ingredients are a must have for waterless beauty.

Heliami - a range of bold oil-based ingredients

Sunflower oil, your trusted ally for water-free beauty

The Heliami range brings efficacy and sustainability to waterless beauty products, thanks to its organic sunflower oil with a high-oleic content, produced in France.

Vegetable oils have been used in beauty for centuries in Asian, Mediterranean and Ayurvedic traditions; recognised for their regenerative and moisturising qualities.

What are the main assets of oil-based botanicals for waterless beauty?

While camellia oil, olive oil and coconut oil are the foundations of beauty in these traditions, sunflower oil is not to be outdone when it comes to benefits for the skin and hair. The market shows it clearly: according to the Mintel GNPD database, in 2022, of all launches containing fats and oils, 29.6% of those for skin care were based on sunflower oil, and 16.3% for hair care. This puts sunflower oil in 3rd (skin) and 5th (hair) place among the most widely used oils.

The key benefits for skincare of this oil are:

  • Hydration: this emollient helps skin absorb and retain moisture, making it ideal for dry skin.
  • Protection: high levels of vitamin E and antioxidants protect skin from environmental aggressors and signs of ageing.
  • Gentle and natural: being plant-based, it is free from harsh chemicals and reduces discomfort, even for delicate skins.
  • Non-comedogenic: since sunflower oil doesn’t clog pores, it is suitable for all skin types, including acne-prone skin.

For haircare, sunflower oil can hydrate, soften, manage frizz and promote shine.

We tested the high-oleic sunflower oil, on which our Heliami range is based, for its ability to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Our in-vivo tests showed that, formulated at only 2.5%, high-oleic sunflower oil significantly reduces TEWL, by 10% compared to non-oleic sunflower oil at 5%, and at 13% compared to an oil free placebo. This shows that the Heliami products, composed almost entirely of high oleic sunflower oil, will help strengthen the skin’s lipid bilayer.

Beautiful curly hair with the natural ingredients of the Heliami range

The outstanding sensory experience of sunflower oil

Oil-based cosmetics also offer a sensory experience that water-based products simply can't match. Their rich, luxurious textures glide effortlessly onto the skin and provide a feeling of comfort that lasts. The slower absorption rate allows you to savour the texture and fragrance of the product, while the improved glide creates a smoother application process. Oils are excellent at retaining and releasing fragrance, ensuring a longer-lasting aromatic journey. They can even create a subtle sensation of warmth, adding another layer to the sensory experience.

Thanks to their moisturising properties and ability to leave a protective film on the skin, oil-based products are not only pleasant to the touch, but they also provide lasting benefits. From their visual appeal to their customisable textures, these formulas appeal to multiple senses, transforming your skincare routine into a true luxury ritual.

Sunflower oil, a powerful lever for sustainable cosmetics

What’s more, consumers are eager for no-frills, simple list of ingredients. Waterless beauty and oil-based ingredients allow such minimalist formulas, without preservatives.

Thanks to its unique oleic acid content, the Heliami range has also been proven to provide greater stability for oily cosmetic products. A higher content of unsaturated fatty acids compared to olive oil and a high content of monounsaturated acids make our sunflower oil highly resistant to heat, more stable and less prone to oxidation, allowing for minimalist formulas.

Good mood girl with an oil-based lipstick 

Marketing waterless beauty concepts

A strong marketing concept helps cosmetics companies create a unique identity, connect with their audience, and ultimately drive sales and growth in this dynamic industry. Here are some of the main reasons. The cosmetics market is highly trend driven so a flexible marketing concept allows brands to quickly adapt their messaging to align with emerging consumer preferences and market trends.

The Heliami range has been developed to offer beauty concepts in line with the major trends of the moment, to quickly launch a product or range in line with consumer expectations. Currently, we offer five extracts each linked to a major current trend in the beauty industry. The range is due to evolve as new trends and marketing opportunities emerge. These narratives not only enhance product efficacy but also create compelling marketing opportunities, allowing brands to craft authentic, nature-inspired experiences for their customers.

Tropical Bohemian with Heliami™ Banana Flower EC

Tropical regions are known for their lush biodiversity, allowing brands to showcase exotic and exciting botanicals in their formulations. Combined with a relaxed island lifestyle, and you get the perfect product for good mood, freedom and self-indulgence. This concept taps into the ethos of creativity, individuality and a laid-back approach to beauty.

Banana Flower resonates with the vibrant colours and enticing scents of the tropics and evokes a vacation-like atmosphere that promotes a sense of escape, relaxation, and self-care.

Heliami Banana Flower EC focuses on bringing natural ingredients, sensory experience and escapism to the realm of cosmetics, to emphasis the connection between inner wellbeing and outer beauty, incorporating elements of mindfulness and self-care. This extract is prefect for applications such as a sublimating oil for dry hair or nourishing body balms.

Heliami Banana Flower EC for tropical bohemian concepts

Bucolic world with Heliami™ Cornflower EC

The Bucolic World concept evokes images of unspoiled nature and rustic simplicity. This aligns well with the growing demand for natural, organic and clean beauty products as well as a return to basics, emphasising simple, time-tested formulations over complex, synthetic ingredients.

It also taps into a romanticised view of rural life, suggesting feelings of nostalgia and a desire for simpler times. In a world of high-tech beauty solutions, a bucolic approach can be perceived as more authentic and trustworthy.

Heliami Cornflower EC delves into this authenticity and the peaceful imagery associated with bucolic settings, which can be used to market products as stress-relieving or calming. By developing products using the Bucolic World concept, cosmetics brands can create a unique identity that appeals to consumers seeking natural, authentic and ethically produced beauty products.

Suggested water-free applications for this natural and floral ingredient include a tired eye serum, a make-up remover oil, or a relaxing body butter.

Bucolic world with Heliami Corn Flower EC

Athleisure Beauty with Heliami™ Ginseng EC

Athleisure beauty (or Ath-Beauty) aims to seamlessly integrate make-up, skincare and haircare into an active lifestyle, allowing consumers to look and feel their best while pursuing their intense activity and fitness goals. Designed to be used before, during and after training sessions, these products are generally sweat-resistant, absorb quickly, are multi-tasking and easy to carry for use on the move. They also need to be natural and skin-friendly so that the formulation doesn't clog pores or irritate the skin during sweating and aids post-workout recovery by soothing and repairing. It is obvious that oily botanicals are ideal for this purpose and Heliami Ginseng EC adds a little something extra.

Our ginseng root oil is particularly well-suited to this concept. In traditional use, ginseng is believed to enhance mental performance, which aligns with the active, goal-oriented mindset of athleisure consumers, as well as being often associated with the potential to increase the body's ability to withstand stress and fatigue, mirroring the endurance and strength aspects of athletic pursuits.

Belonging to the group of adaptogenic plants, ginseng can also bring all the imaginary qualities associated with these plants, and particularly the symbolism of resilience to environmental stressors. Many adaptogens have been used in traditional medicine for centuries, giving the products a unique and distinctive authenticity. Its recognised antioxidant content can help active consumers feel they can cope confidently with free radical damage to the skin or hair, which can be an ideal mindset to have during exercise, or simply during our hectic daily life.

Thanks to these intangible values and cultural associations, Heliami Ginseng EC can be a rich source of marketing narratives for athleisure beauty products, allowing brands to tap into concepts natural potency and holistic well-being that resonate with active, health-conscious consumers.

An ideal ingredient for waterless ath-beauty applications such as a radiance serum, a beard oil or a moisturising two-phase toner!

Athleisure beauty with the power of ginseng - Heliami Ginseng EC

Urban lifestyle concepts with Heliami™ Green Tea EC

Green tea shows great potential for a water-free botanical that embodies the urban lifestyle mindset: with its symbolism of wellness and cultural sophistication, it aligns perfectly with urban consumers’ growing interest in selfcare and holistic well-being. The simple, pure image of green tea can support a minimalist product design that appeals to modern urban sensibilities, that are eager for transparent and eco-friendly products.

The time-efficient, multi-benefit nature of green tea aligns seamlessly with busy city lifestyles, while its detox and stress-relief connotations offer a welcome respite from urban chaos.

As an adaptogen plant, green tea also speaks to the need for resilience in ever-changing and challenging urban environments. Its detoxifying and energizing images address the unique challenges of city living, from pollution to fast-paced routines.

By incorporating Heliami Green Tea EC in their formulations, brands can tap into the concept of mindful skincare rituals, offering a moment of zen in the concrete jungle. In waterless applications such as a protective hair oil or a concentrated eye contour, it will tell a story of balanced, mindful living that resonates deeply with the urban consumer.

Stress-free urban life with green tea

Ocean Breeze with Heliami™ Sea Fennel EC

As an extremophile plant, sea fennel embodies the powerful symbolism of natural tenacity. These remarkable plants learned to thrive in our plant’s harshest environments and bring a narrative of resilience, adaptability and innovation to personal care. Imagine products that embody the strength to withstand environmental stressors, the flexibility to adapt to changing conditions to consumer’s unique needs, and the ability to shield yourself from daily environmental stressors.

These plants also represent the purity from untainted habitats. Born on the windswept shores and nurtured by salty waves, they represent how we can thrive where others falter, promising revitalisation and endurance in beauty routines.

They also invite consumers to imagine themselves on the seashore, to feel the relaxation brought on by the ebb and flow of the tide, by the gentle sound of the waves on the sand and rocks, carried by the invigorating and revitalising sea breeze...

By harnessing the essence of these extraordinary plants with Heliami Sea Fennel EC, cosmetic brands can do a lot more than creating water-free beauty products: they can offer a piece of nature's most ingenious survival strategies for your skin and hair. It's a true ode to the power of adaptation and the harmony of nature, in a hair marine jelly or a dry feet oil bottled for your daily ritual.

The emotions of extremophile plants with Heliami sea fennel EC


The Heliami range of liposoluble actives offers a powerful combination of proven efficacy, exciting marketing potential, and sustainable credentials. These innovative natural ingredients harness the best of nature's wisdom, providing cosmetic formulators with versatile ingredients that resonate with the desire for waterless beauty products of today's conscious consumers.

To learn more about our products and their transformative potential, please visit our product finder. For personalised guidance and support, don't hesitate to reach out to your local sales representative. They're ready to help you unlock the full potential of Heliami actives in your next skincare or haircare innovation!